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Redneck Foglights Installation How To

post by Mud Bogger August 25, 2013 596 views

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Redneck Foglights Installation How To
Driving lights and fog lights came about as car owners navigated the twisting turning by-ways of misty England. Powerful lighting was necessary to illuminate the road ahead for potential hazards to be successfully identified and avoided. In addition, foggy and wet conditions caused by road spray obliterated the edges of poorly crowned roads. There is one more oft-omitted benefit to driving lights and fog lights, simply stated they are "racer cool"; installing these lights, however, on your favorite British sports car takes planning and preparation.

The fog lights are mounted and ready for power.

I remember the days when I rummaged about in my "box of wires" and grabbed any gauge wire of sufficient or insufficient length, splicing together a "rat's nest" of wire connections and crimped ends to connect any number of desired accessories. After a few smoke-filled incidents I am much more careful.

My 1966 Volvo 122S may not be British, but it does use many components common to the cars of England. I picked up two vintage fog lights at a yard sale and these will be installed on my Volvo.

Let's begin with your lights already mounted to the car, the wires dangling beneath or behind and waiting to receive power from Mr. Lucas. The first order of business is to determine the amperage of your driving/fog lights. My lamps are vintage and each unit reads 35 watts. The formula for amperage is watts divided by volts equals amps, or W/V=A. Since I will be wiring the lights to the relay with one lead, 70W/12V= 5.8A. I will be using 14-gauge wire, which handles up to 11.8A. Amps are a measure of current flow; volts are a measure of the force behind the flow of current. To protect my 14-gauge wiring I will be installing 10-amp inline fuses. The rule of thumb is this: the fuse ought to be rated near 80% of the amperage of the wire. This will ensure that you blow the fuse before you burn the wire. In my case, 80% of 11.8A is 9.44A so a 10-amp inline fuse is perfect.

I will need several colors of 14-gauge wire: black, green, white, and red. The reason is simple, the color identifies the purpose of each wire and if I ever have a problem I can track it down using my wiring diagram. Here is what I need to complete the job:

Two 10-amp inline fuses (as above)
Wire in the gauge and colors described
Relay (with four male spade connectors on back)
Switch (with three male spade connectors on back)
Female spade connectors (crimp style)
Eyelet connectors (crimp style)
Butt connectors (crimp style)
Electrical tape
Lock ties (small black type)
Crimping tool and cutter for wire
Electric drill and a 7/64" drill bit
Sheet metal screws (for connecting ground wires to body)

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